Where to stop on the drive to West Texas: Part 1

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The road to West Texas is full of discoveries

The typical highlights of a West Texas trip – Big Bend, Marfa, Davis Mountains, Guadalupe National Park – are far from the big cities (Austin, DFW, Houston, San Antonio etc). Flying into El Paso or Midland is one way to visit, but a minimum 3-hour drive is still required from there, so many people choose to make the whole thing a road trip. A standard West Texas trip is often less than a week, and more often a long weekend, so if the drive from home (~9 hours to Houston or Dallas, 6 hrs to Austin or San Antonio) makes up such a major chunk of your time off, why not maximize the experience of the drive?

In truth, there are multiple gems along the way which are perfect for breaking up the drive, stretching your legs, grabbing a bite to eat, or even adding a night to your trip. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore all that Central and West Texas have to offer by dropping in on these destinations. This post and the following are focused on the drive due West from Austin, San Antonio, and Houston (via 290, 71, and I-10).

Winding through the Hill Country from Austin to Junction

Most travelers headed West from the major Texas hubs will quickly think of I-10, but coming out of Austin (and even Houston or San Antonio if you are willing to add some time to your trip), 290 offers a beautiful cruise through hills, fields, vineyards, and small towns. After West Texas, which I have recently fallen in love with, the Hill Country west of Austin is my favorite part of the state for its charm and natural beauty. While on the way, consider the following stops:

Johnson City: Named for settler James Polk Johnson and the hometown of president Lyndon B. Johnson, this small town is the county seat of Blanco County. At about an hour West of downtown Austin, it is a great first pitstop if coming out of ATX (or North out of San Antonio). One thing to notice about small town county seats is that they are often anchored by beautiful old courthouses surrounded by green courtyards and large trees – if you need to stretch your legs like I do when driving all day, walking around one of these county courthouses offers just the respite needed. Some courthouses, like Johnson City’s, come with other interesting artifacts – Johnson City’s includes an old 75mm gun to honor Blanco County’s veterans. If you choose to spend a bit more time exploring town, stop in on The Jittery Biscuit (for a snack or re-caffeination for your drive), Pecan Street Brewing (for a cold one), or the Texas Vintage Motorcycle Museum (to see some wicked rides).

Blanco County Courthouse in Johnson City, Texas

Fredricksburg: There is much that could be written about this famous Hill Country town, full of German cultural heritage, but as a native Austinite, one thing I can tell you is that it has exploded in popularity over the last two decades. When I was growing up, it felt just like any other small Hill Country town, but today, it is chock full of tourists flocking to its breweries, German restaurants, shops, and the wineries lining 290 all the way to Johnson City. Multiple lengthy posts could be written about this town, but for now, I’ll say that it is a great place to stop in for some Hill Country souvenirs, a stroll along an almost 2-mile long Main Street, and perhaps a flight of beers at Fredricksburg Brewing Company or a German lunch at Silver Creek Beer Garden & Grille.

A flight of beers at Fredricksburg Brewing Company on Main Street

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area: If you are really into taking your sweet time on your drive West, sometimes the best option is to find a hike for some fresh air (and to tire yourself out for a nap in the car later). Enchanted Rock has a way of aweing first time visitors in how it suddenly appears before them as a massive pink granite dome rising out of the green Hill Country pastures and hills. As you hike any one of its 11 trails, you may cirumnavigate the giant rock formation, climb to the top for some satisfying panoramic views (and burning glutes), or explore its multiple caves (if you are not claustrophobic like me). Since this has become a popular destination for Central Texans and visitors alike, be sure to make a reservation in advance. Another option is to simply drive by the beautiful natural site – the views coming out of Fredricksburg on Ranch Road 965 are striking, and fittingly, Enchanted Rock majestically appears before you in the distance as you come over a hill just outside of town.

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area (photo from Texas Parks & Wildlife Website)

Alternate route through the Hill Country: If you have already driven 290 or simply want to avoid the crowds of Fredricksburg, another great way to reach I-10 through the hills is via 71 out through Marble Falls and Llano, 29 onwards to Mason, and then 377 down to Junction. You better be hungry coming through Marble Falls, as there is no better spot for a filling country meal than Blue Bonnet Cafe, where the chicken fried steak is as large as your face, and the 15 flavors of homemade pie help you complete your food coma. If some good Texas barbecue is what you have a hankering for instead, leave Marble Falls in the dust and stop in on Cooper’s Old Time Pit BBQ in either Llano or Mason (its in both!). Both towns are county seats and come with the same striking courthouses as seen in Johnson City – start collecting them! Highway 16 South out of Llano will take you to Fredricksburg and also offers access to Enchanted Rock at the other end of Ranch Road 965.

Chocolate Meringue and Lemon Cream pie at Blue Bonnet Cafe in Marble Falls, Texas

Bonus – the best pit stop between Houston and Austin on US 71: Given the humidity of Houston, many travelers to West Texas will be Houstonians looking for a temporary escape – and while I-10 through San Antonio is the fastest route, some may to choose to detour via Austin and the Hill Country by exiting on 71 at Columbus headed Northwest. Many seasoned roadtrippers like myself may quickly think of Buc-ee’s when its time for a leak or a snack, and for good reason. But Hruska’s in Ellinger is the best option when headed from Houston towards Austin as the kolaches are superior, the crowds few and far between, and it represents almost the exact halfway point between Houston and Austin (while Buc-ee’s is essentially at one end or the other). Plus, you may spy a few roosters walking around the parking lot to say hello.

Hruska’s in Ellinger, Texas (photo from the Hruska’s website)

Conclusion

Make the most of your grand adventure cruising towards West Texas by stopping in one, if not multiple, of these beautiful destinations. You won’t regret it! Not mentioned, but worth a stop: Dripping Springs, Luckenbach, Burnet (another courthouse!), and Stonewall (has a rodeo!). A future post will take us further West……where the trees become shrubs become deserts……Junction, Sonora, Ozona, and beyond!

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